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A Great Algonquin Portage

We arrived at Algonquin just as a dark wall of ominous clouds blanketed the park. “Is this foreshadowing?” I thought to myself.

It was my first time visiting this provincial gem. My boyfriend and friends surprised me with the long weekend getaway for my 23rd birthday and I was relieved to ditch the city for some nature-induced fun. What I didn’t know, was that another surprise awaited me at the entry of the park. We weren’t just camping…we were tackling a great Algonquin portage!

Portaging entails carrying your canoe across the land between lakes until you find a marked campsite that suits your liking. I predicted portaging with my boyfriend, who is an extremely ambitious camper, would entail a weekend of intense physical activity, refined outdoorsmanship and throbbing muscle cramps. Sure it wouldn’t be the weekend of suntanning, swimming and relaxation that I had anticipated, but it was an adventure.

Meeting the gray skies, we quickly unpacked our cars and loaded our waterproof bags into three canoes. In the final moments of sunshine, we paddled around the small lakes searching for the perfect campsite. Note to self #1: Never expect perfection while camping.

After an hour-long search that was decorated with spats of rain, we pulled up to a small, hilly island. We docked our canoes and scoped out the plot. It was spacious enough for three tents and even had a pre-built fire pit. “Guys! Come here!” my friend suddenly shouted. We all rushed over to see an aged memorial plaque for a young girl who died on the island years prior. “Nope!” one of my friends said, completely spooked out. We hopped back into our canoes and begged our biceps to paddle on. As we departed, in some sick joke mastered by the universe, a little red shoe floated between our boats. Note to self #2: Stop watching horror movies.

We passed site after site. That one is too bare…that one is too small…that one isn’t marked…until a loud boom echoed across the lake. Have you ever watched that scene from The Notebook when Rachel McAdams and Ryan Gosling are passionately proclaiming their love for one another while sitting in a rowboat in a torrential downpour? Now imagine that, minus the charming words.

We could barely see each other as we headed for land to escape any potential lightning. When it slightly let up, we caught sight of flames flickering on the shore. An older couple made their way out to the opening. “Are you guys OK?” they shouted. It’s funny how pickiness tends to wear off in moments of desperation. Attempting to seek shelter, even for only a few minutes, my friend shouted back, “Hey, do you guys have room for a couple more people over there?” For a moment, all we could hear were the pellets of rain slamming our tin canoes as the couple stood still on the shore. Finally, the man put his hands up to his mouth and shouted a half-assed, “Ha-ha!” that reverberated across the open water and into my nightmares for the remainder of our stay.

Although miserable, tired and drenched, we eventually found a marked spot that was, ironically, almost perfect for our weekend. After setting up our tents, we spent the remainder of the drier days exploring the island, cooking delicious meals and laughing around the fire. Note to self #3: Never turn down a surprise camping trip.

To this day, my boyfriend tells people, “Yeah, it was raining. But the only thing filling up the canoe was Courtney’s tears.” Which isn’t true, of course, but it is funny. And if the outcome of an adventure is a funny story, then, in my opinion, it was an adventure well-lived.

 

Portugal travel tips: consider camping

From the stunning coastlines to the lush vineyards of the north, Portugal’s allure is one of a kind. I remember the overwhelming feeling when two of my best gal pals and I decided on this destination for a three-week trip in 2016- there was so much to see in so little time.

I wanted to visit the rolling hills of Sintra, the vibrant city of Lisbon and the cliff-lined Algarve coast, but there was plenty of natural beauty between the nation’s major hubs, and it was calling to me. An agreement was made to skip the headache of booking hostels and the group opted for a more rugged experience. Sleeping bags, cooking supplies and a three-person tent were packed  and plans were set to jump from campsite to campsite along the Alentejo Coast.

To this day,  adventures camping through Portugal are some of my fondest travel memories. Those looking for a journey on a budget, or merely for the chance to get outside and indulge in nature, consider camping along this country’s coast for the perfect cure to onset of wanderlust.

Cost

Camping is a much cheaper alternative to staying in hotels, Airbnbs and even backpacker hostels. On average, I spent about €5 ($7.75 CAD) per night, with some sites costing as little as €2 ($3.10 CAD). Sometimes, this charge was applied to each person, but more commonly, it was applied to each tent, and because the group decided to snuggle up in one, the overall accommodation costs were extremely low.

Most campsites along the Alentejo Coast are located in small towns, so food and alcohol were generally cheaper as well. I remember one night sitting around a picnic bench, listening to the ocean, and sipping on a €0.50 glass of local wine that was filled to the brim- and this was a common occurrence.

It’s worthwhile to dig through travel forums to find campsites and wild spots in an area of interest, or check out iOverlander and FurgoVW for mapped areas throughout Western Europe. In Algarve territory, be aware that wild camping is officially banned.

Environment

Coming from Canada, where there are  some of the most lush campsites in the world, setting up a tent in the often sparse landscapes of Portugal was a bit of an adjustment. But, where Portugal’s coast lacks in trees, it makes up for in ocean.

The Alentejo Coast is a string of sandy coves woven through steep and rocky ocean-side ridges. This stunning scenery is usually only a short walk from  campsites, or, if wild camping,  the ocean is right at your tent door! There’s nothing better than waking up to the soundtrack of the sea.

Some of the Alentejo Coast  is populated with oak, olive and other native plant species- Over 100 kilometres of the coast is part of the Parque Natural do Sudoeste Alentejano e Costa Vicentina, a preserved slice of land that’s home to plenty of unique animal and plant species. Unlike Canada there are no black bears or big cats roaming around these parts. There are very few dangerous animals in Portugal, especially along the coast, which is yet another reason why camping here has such a draw.

Site Quality

Campground quality can be a hit or a miss, and the group definitely experienced some rougher plots of land. However, more often than not, all were pleasantly surprised with the location and perks that the accommodations had to offer.

Most campgrounds along the coast are equipped with amenities that are suited for a resort- clean showers, outdoor pools, laundry rooms, on-site restaurants, grocery stores, barbecue stations and even widespread WiFi access. Some of the grounds are so clean and comfortable, that it’s not uncommon for families to park their camper vans or trailers and stay for months at a time. The parks can get quite full in peak season, but luckily, our group was travelling at the end of September and missed the summer rush.

A few coastal spots  are world renowned for their waves and are popular with surf camps and retreats. The grounds stayed on in Sagres, for example, had a surf camp on site and offered lessons to interested visitors.

People

Perhaps the most enjoyable aspect of camping through Portugal was the many faces  that I met along the way. As most small-town campgrounds are frequented by Portuguese families, I had the opportunity to spend time with the locals and learn about their culture firsthand. Friendly residents and fellow campers brought the group to their favourite beach spots, as well as to local gatherings. They cooked the meanest salted cod (or baccalau) I’ve ever tasted in my life!

There’s something about being in the great outdoors, especially in a country as beautiful as Portugal, that sparks the most basic instinct to bask in the joy of company. The intimate, yet open spirit of camping is one that brings people closer together and it’s an experience that the hostel-jumping trend of travelling often seems to miss. So, on the next trip to Portugal, (or anywhere for that matter) plan  a different kind of adventure- one that allows travelers to see a destination in its purest state.

Camping vs. Glamping in Ontario

Camping is the thing to do if you love nature, but learning to do it well takes practice. As a child and teenager, I camped almost every weekend. I remember looking into the campfire as a child and imagining a whole world inside the embers, and spending the days hiking and listening to the birds chirp happily. On the other hand, it does require supplies, and a certain hardiness to really enjoy the experience.

If you don’t enjoy building campfires or sleeping on the ground in a sleeping bag, but still yearn for the great outdoors a new alternative has become popular in Ontario. Glamping is the new fad, and it is glamorous indeed. I found several glamping locations in Ontario that offer an experience for those looking to create natural memories in comfort. This type of luxury camping is a form of five-star camping, similar to vacationing at an outdoor hotel in the woods. Glamping includes yurts, eco-tents, eco-cabins, and teepees. Another perk of the glamping experience is the seclusion it offers. Many of the greatest luxury spots in the province are in private locations and allow people to really experience a “get-away”.

By Samuel Etienne
Glamping in the woods, By Samuel Etienne.

If you are looking for the most deluxe glamping experience in Ontario, Outpost Co. is the ticket. The glamping site is located at Obabika Lake and is $2500 per person for four days and three nights in a deluxe tent area. The campsite is on a hidden lake 90 minutes from Billy Bishop Toronto Islands airport and a chartered plane to the location is included in the price. A private chef is also a part of the deal, and the king size beds have Egyptian cotton sheets. This is definitely glamping in style. The campsite has hiking trails and is in a secluded and natural area.

If you are looking for a safari styled camping option, the Elegant Safari Tents in Carolinian Canada is a beautiful and exotic option. The tents are covered with jute carpets and have oak beds that are 100 years old. The campsite is located on a river, and wooden floating decks are built directly in front of the tent. Fluffy towels, bathrobes and soaps are also provided. This glamping experience is located in the Grand River and is $132 per night. Canoeing is available on the lake and the area is replete with remote hiking trails.

Yurt_by_night_-_geograph.org.uk_-_437714
A yurt in the woods.

A yurt is a round, semi-permanent housing structure that comes from Central Asia. Yurts are easy to install and take down and can be adapted easily to different climates. Yurts are popular in the glamping world and are set up in advance for the customers.   A pet-friendly yurt is offered near Algonquin Park and has one unit available. The yurt is in Mattawa in northern Ontario and can accommodate up to five guests. Included are linens, the unit is heated and there is a yoga platform outside of the yurt. It is $193 per night.

A yurt is a new way to camp in a tent-like apparatus but it has more flexibility in warm and cold weather. A yurt can be adapted to have open screens all the way around the unit for ultimate cooling and can also be protected from the wind on all sides, creating the ultimate outdoor tent.

Flowerpot Island, Georgian Bay.
Flowerpot Island, Georgian Bay.

If you prefer camping to glamping, there are several spots to rent cheaply and enjoy an authentic nature experience. All you need is a tent, a campfire and the stars to have a good time. Though a comfy bed would be a nice addition to camping, it can be enjoyable to rough it in the bush for a few days. Parks Canada offers several campsites in Ontario that can be booked online and recognize a variety of types of camping in the province. Camping in Ontario also provides private campsites across the province and makes it easy to book a spot too.

Camping in Georgian Bay and Prince Edward County near the beach is recommended because of the beauty of the lakes and beaches. Algonquin Park is a sight to be seen as well because of the immense forest and calm waters for canoeing. Escaping the city and being able to connect with nature in a visceral way is grounding in the warm summer months and camping provides that opportunity. It also helps to breathe fresh air and exercise in a natural environment for a weekend get-away.

Whether it is glamping or camping, getting out into nature for a vacation is the best way to spend your weekends. Instead of keeping the kids indoors, get your family outside to breathe the fresh air. Tell stories over the campfire, and go on a hike. Experience the silence of being away from the city and the sounds of nature in the early morning. Both options have their merits and experiencing nature at its fullest will be unforgettable no matter how it is done.